I've always wanted to go to a place with a loooot of snow, since I'm from Lisbon and never saw it in my life. So I gatherer with my best friend and thought... Let's go to Tromso to see the northern lights (Norway)? And he said: "If we are going to spend all that money, why not Iceland?". That's when it all began.

So, the purpose of this trip was to do the Ring Road, a wide circle road that connects the whole island in 360 degrees, in 9 days, with 4-5 hours of sun, freezing weather and public holidays. That's the first thing: never be too ambicionist in your itinerary ahah cause this did not went as I planned!

This itinerary is for you if:

What to pack:

I went to one of the coldest places between 26th december - 5th january. It's Iceland... In winter... And if you follow this itinerary you will be out of town into the wild many times!! You will be doing angels in the snow and fall with your ass in the ice a lot, so you have to be prepared for that.

I came with 

Make sure to choose/do a good spotify playlist because there will be a lot of hours in the car.

Weather in Iceland in Winter:

Is it too cold like Lapland? Absolutely not. I was prepared for much less temperature, and actually I was surprised (well, I'm from Portugal where 0º degrees is almost not possible so I came with too many jackets haha). The warm winds of South America come to Iceland, so it was normally -5º celcius and the worse we encounter was -13º celcius near the Plane Wreck in the Black Beach and -15º in the middle of the night in the northern lights tour in Thingvellir National Park. I remember this really well cause I was seing the Lights, and decided to wrote a poem in my phone. I had to take out the gloves and my fingers almost died with the cold xD Please don't do that, the poems can wait.

Where to sleep:

This was a budget trip. We always tried to sleep in free campsites inside our campervan, if we didn't have a collaboration with a hostel/hotel. The only money for accomodation we  gave was in the worse campsite in all Iceland probably, the Skogafoss Campsite (8€ per person). If you can, avoid this place. I'll tell you the details later ahah! When you're choosing a campsite, please remember that some close in the winter.

You can check the campsites in this link. Some are free, others not. Some have kitchen and warm shower, others not ahah:

https://www.rent.is/blog/campsites-in-iceland/

How to move:

We rented a campervan for the 9 days. The cost was 440€ (220€ per person) and you have a lot of companies to choose from. Our was from Motorhome, they picked us at the airport and left us there in the end.If you need a 4x4...our campervan was a normal one. It deppends on where you want to go. If you're going to the hightlands or to the volcanos yes go in a 4x4, if you want to do our itinerary you don't need to!

ALWAYS check the road conditions before you go somewhere. Weather in Iceland is unpredictable and roads can be closed for the snow catch trucks to clean it. One day we went like 70km to come back cause the road was closed. Check here:

http://www.road.is/travel-info/road-conditions-and-weather/

Expenses:

Food is expensive in Iceland. If you're on a budget, forget the restaurants. The best thing and cheapest for you to eat is one of their yogurts that taste like shit (I don't like yogurt, maybe you'll think different) but it has a lot of protein.

In Fuel, for 3167 km we spent 350€ (divided per 2 was only 175€, I thought it was cheap!). We had a discount card for a specific fuel company that the campervan rental gave us. Many companies do this!

About tours, things to do, we did partnerships, but trully reccomend you to do an Ice Cave tour or to Hike a Glacier, because it's the best thing you can do in the winter. The only money we spent in tours was 36€ each to go on a tour to see the northern lights on the last day, since we tried to see them for our own but could not. You can go by other paths if you want!

The Must-Do Experiences in Winter

Besides all the bad things the winter can provide in Iceland, here's why you should visit this country in this part of the year, unique things (I my opinion you should visit in winter and in summer cause it's really different):

Arrival

We arrived at Kleavik airport at night, and waited for our transportation to arrive - the company of the campervan led us to our vehicle and then we started the journey. First stop: Fuel station and supermarket. I have to say that, going from the office to the van, I almost felt 100 timesbecause there was the first time I was walking on Ice. After some falls I got better, on the last day I didn't felt at all ahah!
In the supermarket we bought cheerios cereals, that horrible protein iceland yogurts, some bananas (the cheapest fruit ahah), some honey and peanuts cereal bars that were going to be our main dish for a week and coffee. First tip: Cereal bars are the best way to have money and kalories ahah!!

Grindavik Campsite

Then we head off to Grindavik Campsite. If you wanna start your journey south - east - north - west and finish in Reykjavik, Grindavik Campsite is the best way to seize the night in your Golden Circle journey. It's located really close to the Blue Lagoon (10 min drive?), and it has amazing facilities - kitchen, good toilets, maps.


1st Day - 27th December

Blue Lagoon

Ok. This day is crazy and we didn't thought it well!! We tried to do too much stuff. I suggest you reppart this in 2 days cause otherwise you'll be running like us and you don't really enjoy it!
We started the day in the Blue Lagoon when It was still dark (9 am). We already knew we wouldn't go spend 80 euros in the Thermal Baths, but you're free to do whatever you want!  So we arrived, walked a little and saw the outside beautiful area (before the entry, you have a left path worth a visit) until we were already lost and head back ahah!! At 10 we went to our next stop.

Reykdalur Hot Spring Thermal River




Then we went to the Reykdalur Hot spring Thermal River and the landscape was amazing! it's full of hills with a hot river running trought them. The sulfur smell was there but it didn't stopped us.

Gulfoss


Our next stop? One of the most famous waterfalls, at least the most visited in the Golden Circle: Gulfoss. It's huuuge and many touristic, but totally worth it! That's when we actually realized... We're in fucking Iceland!!! And it was cold. So cold. My fingers were dying. And it was snowing. And very wind. But hey, it could be worse! The water in Hvítá river travels from the glacier Langjökull, before cascading 32 meters (105 feet) down Gullfoss’ two stages in a dramatic display of nature’s raw power.

 Icelandic Horses

Heading to our next stop, we had to do a little stop over cause I saw Icelandic Horses, and you know me... Of corse I had to see them closely! I barely knew I would see more horses than people in my upcoming days ahah! Actually there was a food machine for them, you put a coin and are given a cup with horse food that you can give them in the mounth. But be careful cause when I was doing it the horsecatched my hand and almost crushed it! But I love them anyway. Totally a touristic thing to do this, like the rest of south Iceland.

Geysir


Then, we went to see the Geysir. It has small geysirs around, and then the big one called Strokkur which spouts water 30 meters into the air in every few minutes!! I could not film that cause I was too lazy catching the camera, maybe next time xD

Hrunalaug Hot Springs


In the end of the day (like 3pm, and the sun was already disappearing) we decided to have our first true icelandic experience - There's a place nearby the Geysir area called Hrunalaug Hot Springs - you have a pittoresque pool with a cute traditional cabbin where you can  bath for free (it actually accepts tips, it's on you).We find there many broken backpackers and did something crazy: We got undressed in like... -4º celcius (cause the cabbin had no door) and then walked a few meters that felt like hours to go to the 40º celcius water in the pool, where we met a great scottish couple. Yeah I don't regret it, but it was hard as hell xD Our first big proof on this journey. The sweetest things come with great challenges! Make sure you stop by, instead of the 80 euros you would drop in the Blue Lagoon Spa.

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall

 
At 7pm (completely dark) we went to our final destination - the Seljalandsfoss. It's a different kind of waterfall... It's high but it looks like someone is doing pee cause the water fluxe is not too much. We were driving in total darkness until we saw a light in the horizon and thought, well... It may be here! You actually "have" to pay to park there but no one will check it so I think it's fine if you just go there for 15 min.

Skogafoss Campsite


Our day ended with our feet hurted but our heart totally warm. Until the worse thing happend in this trip xD I don't know how much km did we drive, but I bet it was not a small number.
As I told you, this was the only night that we paid accomodation, in the Skogafoss Campsite (8€ p/ person). Unlike the Grindavik, it was dirty, with cold water and no kitchen facilities. We had to pay more 100 ISK each for shower. But we were so tired trying to find a place to stay that yeah, we crashed there. Oh! And Skogafoss was supposely in our itinerary for this day... But we managed a better solution. So, our dinner was yogurt with Cheerios. It was not good at all but our cereal bars disappeared trought the day xD Keep in mind this dinner detail, I will get to it later.





2nd Day - 28th December

Vatnajokull Glacier Tour with Glacier Adventures

Click here to see the full report on this amazing tour company!! Make sure you go with them in your next icy trip :)

5 am. We woke up at 5 am. And we barely knew we were going to have the most incredible day of our lives... At 5h20 we were in the shower, with only 1 towel and 4 min of cold bath. Hardest shower in my life!! After brushing our teeths, having some make up, and eating the last 15 cheerios in the plastic package, at 6h30 probably we started the most difficult drive ever. The thing is: We were in Skogafoss and we had to go to Hali, 240 km to east, 3h13 according to the gps. You're thinking.. How about Vik and Skogafoss? Well we put it on other day. You should do the straight line itinerary, our problem was the fullfillment of the partnerships that only had some available days.
We needed to be there at 9h30, cause we were going to have a tour with Glacier Adventures with the departure at 9h45 to Vatnajokull Glacier to an Ice Cave. Sleeping 5 hours with no food in the stomach was not easy at all for me, and even less for my partner driver. He was almost sleeping but he took us safe to Hali. We stopped 1 time for fuel and arrived exactly at 9h45! Our tour guide said, with no smile: "You're Late". And our cheeks turned into red, but then we discovered he was just kidding with us and he was going to be a great guide!!   He gave us the necessary material for the trip, crampoons and ice climb things for our feet, and said "I hope you had a good breakfast, cause we're only going to eat in 5 or 6 hours". I looked at João and we started to panic and to nervously laught about this situation xD But wait, everything will be fine!

Blue Ice Cave


So, our tour had few people, 8/9, and we started with a 4x4 jeep ride into crazy roads, passying trough lakes, glaciers and dirt road, until we reached the front of the glacier. Then, we walked half an hour trough some volcanic rocks, ice and waterfalls with our guide always keeping us safe (it was truly a cinematic place, I could do a movie there and earn millions ahah), untill the entrance of the Ice Cave. There's just one entrance, and many tours go there, so we waited a bit for our turn. 
It looked like something that fell of a fairytale... I was almost crying with joy and João was amazed too!! Our floor was transparent Ice (I tried to find some whale bones but I failed xD) and, in the left part, we had a river running. You have to be careful to not fall into the river, obviosly, but the tour gives enought time to see it all. It's small, so, it was 15 min to take pictures and to feel alive ahah. 
Let's go back to the fact that we have not eaten since the last day and our dinner was that baaaah yogurt with Cheerios. So, We really thought we were going to the Ice cave and then go back, but the tour company decided to make our partnership better and give us a glacier hike too. Oh! Now I understand why we would need the crampoons!! So, the greatest adventure began. Hiking a glacier without nothing in the stomach. And 5 hours sleep. And... Well, just keep reading xD

Vatnajokull Glacier Hike


We put our crampoons and started. First, the climb. All together, we made a line and attatched ourselves to a rope, then, we walked paralell to the rope and there's actually a different thecnique to crave the feets in the ice, it deppends if your're climbing, going down or going "side", our guide was amazing telling us all this information! We walked, walked, walked... And my stomach was dying, my hands were freezing, but I had João helping me and saying "Don't worry, we can make this. We are strong. And we are going to have the best story ever to tell everyone!!". Until we finnaly reached a point the rope was not necessary anymore: we walked a little more on our ones to a Moulin: a circular, vertical well like shaft within a glacier or ice sheet which water enters from the surface. So, manly speaking, it's a hole in the glacier where you can walk in a flat floor (finally ahah!!) and which you can explore. We enter the depression by going down in other rope. I truly felt I was in that national geographic program with Bear Grylls when he climbs mountains with the famous. There was a little waterfall and our guide said we actually could drink water from there! After a little time exploring the flat hole we entered in some ice tunnels and started our climbin for the way out. The "Nightmare" began but actually it was a lot more fun cause my brain was just like "fuck it, I don't even remember I'm hungry since I'm in the most beautiful place in the world" ahah!! And here I came, craving my crampoons like if it was the last day on earth.
When we reached the ground and the volcanic rocks, something was not right. The group that went after us (with other company) was still in the Glacier, and one person had an accident. Many volunteers came to bring him to the hospital and our guide was really concerned. That's why I choose this company, we had the best accompainment a tour of this kind can have and our guide was always checking and always worried about our safety, no matter what. Thank you Glacier Adventures for this safe journey!!

Iceberg Lagoon at night

 
After, we arrived in Hali and automaticly bought 2 peanut cereal bars and took a hot chocolat. I was so tired I put cold water with the chocolat and when I realized I had to do it again, but that hot cholocate tasted like... Heaven!! Finally some food! I looked at João and it was a moment of bound a few people have in a life time actually. Let's trough back - we had a terrible night, got trought a cold shower (with only one towel, I think he used his pajama), drived 3 hours in total darkness without sleep/food in roads we never saw, then climbed a glacier together and protected eachother no matter what. We were always there for eachother. And that was the most beautiful day of our lives.
Then, in a 10 min drive we got to iceberg lagoon, but it was sunset already. We tried to eat fish and chips (we fucking deserved it !!) but they closed to the client before us, so we went for the cheap hot dog. Best. Hot. Dog. Ever. It could taste like rats but I don't even care with so much hunger ahah!! We saw the sunset in the most beautiful place in the world (which we saw properly in the next day) and laugh about the situation.

Night at Hotel Klaustur


Our next stop was Kirkjubæjarklaustur (yeah I cannot spell it eather, don't worry) cause we were going to spend the night in Hotel Klaustur. We were received by Anastaysia and she was amazing! Told us the forecast for that night and the possibility to see the northern lights and took us to our amazing room. When we were there, I noticed my camera was strange, all blurry and I started to panic cause my father gave me that camera and it means a lot to me. But after 15 min she got back to normal. Rule - be careful with canon RX100 cause they don't like humidity and all that glacier hike was bad for her ahah. 
After all the pictures done, we decided we needed a reward. So we spent 40 euros in a dinner. Eating handmade pizzas. Yeah. I don't regret it at all. It was in a 3 min drive from the hotel, I don't remember the name of the restaurant but this is a small town (if you can call it town) so I'm sure is the first you find.
Heading back to the hotel, we resheduled our itinerary cause it was a mess with all this stuff happening and lack of time and solar light, but we could manage it!




3rd Day - 29th December

Diamond Beach



After an amazing buffet breakast at Hotel Klaustur (Icelandic one, with fish, smoked salmon, pankakes... god knows how much I love pankakes, and many types of cheese) we were full of food so this day would be totally different from the day before. Barelly we knew the last day started bad and ended right, this day would be the opposite!
We packed our things and made the 1 hour journey to the Diamond beach. It's a black sand beach full of ice cubs with the most incredible shapes and colors, that really looked like giant diamonds (some were black because they were of the hight density and bubble free, or even incorporated black sand). This little parts of ice belong to the icebergs of Jokulsárlón glacier lagoon wchich wash up on shore. Unfortunatly, this diamonds are disappearing, cause you know... Climate change...
So, ending the cientis explanation, let's talk about the fun part: there was probably -3º celcius, and we saw a japanese girl doing a photoshoot almost naked (with only a ballet leotard) doing ballet poses on the ice cubs. The most incredible part - she didn't felt and it looked like she had no cold at all! Well, after seing this it was my turn for the photoshoot cause I always have to keep you guys informed, but mine was more a clumbsy/cute photoshoot. Don't worry! I din't went to the top of any ice block, I just layed down in one of them xD
Before leaving, I picked one volcanic small rock that I took home to remember this beautiful place.

Iceberg Lagoon



1 min driving and we're in the most cinematic place in the world. I have to admit it but the worse part was the 20 min looking for a place to park the car cause I think this is the most touristic place in iceland. If you go in summer I would suggest you to go off hours like mid night, there shouldn't be so much people there and you have that midnight sun. So, it's a large lagoon with a maximum depth of 248 meters, and it's Iceland's deepest lake. The icebergs you see there are composed of ice that is 1000 years old and the lagoon (which connects to the ocean) is composed of a sea and fresh water mixture, that's what gives it that amazing blue color.

South East Iceland




At 2pm we left this place and started the most adventurest drive ever. At first it was easy.. We stopped by beautiful isolated houses with a yellow and orange floor covered with herbs, with an autumn vibe, and our goal was to reach Stokksnes before night. 

Stokksnes 




We started to see some higher picks until we arrived in our destination after 1 hour from the Iceberg Lagoon. Stokksnes is a black sand beach where you can have a beautiful view of one of the most famous mountains in the region, the Vestrahorn. And that's were we started to see a looot of snow... Like, a whole new Iceland!! we were so happy we got out the car for some minutes and found cute icelandic horses on our way. 
When we arrived in Stokksnes, we saw the beach was private and we had to pay a small fee to entry. We decided not to go, and just stay near the mountain, cause it was almost night and we were paying for very veeery short sunlight time. It was beautiful anyway. Our first mountain with snow. A thing you'll never forget, for sure!

The crazy and dangerous car ride

We started our journey to the north, with no clue of where we were sleeping that night. Saw some campsites, and some available hotels/small accomodations that were cheap and tried our luck. Start point: Stokksnes. Finishing point: Seydisfjordur (which we decided like 30 min before arrival xD).

Djupivogur


First, we went for Djupivogur. We thought... well, a "not so small" village, maybe we can find some hotel and bathroom! WRONG. Everything was closed cause it was winter season.  
Some facts about the town: Djúpivogur is a charming village with a long history of trading since 1589 located in a place of incomparable natural beauty. Today the main industry is fishing with tourism increasing rapidly in recent years. Langabúð, the oldest house in Djúpivogur was originally built in 1790, has been renovated and now serves as a cultural centre. It houses some of the works of sculptor Ríkarður Jónsson, a heritage museum and a coffee-shop with delicious homemade cakes and a display of local handicraft.
So, in our search for a toilet, we found a beautiful harbor. And, when we got out of the car we heard a strondous noise that really frighned us (is this a gun? oh wait, we're in iceland, the safest place in the world. Is this a snow monster? a  gigant squid? what the hell is going on??). It was one guy that just exploded a firework in his house. In Iceland fireworks are legal for everyone to have it in the new year season (that's a big thing for them). And the remain parts of it were almost toutching my feet, so, yeah, that was funny!!


Eastern little towns

With no luck here, we continue our journey and stopped in every single town we found: Breidalsvik, Stodvarfjordur, Faskrudsfjordur, until we found a fuel service in the last one (with a bathroom yeii!!). We also bought our great cereal bars for dinner, and tried the Foss hotel for some kind of partnership (a huge hotel chain, also closed for winter season). I also have to say it was beautiful to see the new towns as we arrived there, cause almost all were a peninsula surrounded by water, so we could see the lights painting the water, and I felt I was in my home in Almada in my grandmother's house, cause the view was really similar. It was so magical and emotional.

So, we checked google and we saw we were almost in a town with an airport, called Egillstadir. Tired of the whole trip, we went out of the car in a parkway and did a snowman with the enormous ammount of snow on the floor - don't blame me, I never saw so much snow in my life! We tried to reach the campsite in that town but for some reason we didn't like it, until finally, after some more google, I discovered a free campsite with good facilities in a town nearby (30 min). João was almost killing me cause he was really tired but yeah we took that leap of faith that was going to send us to one of the most incredible places of Iceland we could never discovered without this conditions. So: Don't worry if something bad happens to you, cause something good always comes out of bad situations.

The night ride until Seyðisfjörður


The only thing we knew: There was a town called Seyðisfjörður and we were going there for the open campsite that had toilets. We ended up IN THE MIDDLE OF A SNOW STORM DOING CURVES AND MORE CURVES IN A MOUNTAIN xD I looked at my right and the only thing I saw was total darkness, and some giant mountain on the left. And the snow was going on a full speed from left to right, doing a "fog" effect on the road. I don't know how to explain better, you should see it for yourselves!! It was scary, but other unforgettable thing. Of corse we didn't tell our parents about this. Also, this "30 min" trip costed 1 hour. Check out this video in the beggining of the trip (it's something like this, but a lot worse):



We arrived in the town, and finally some clarity! It was laying beetween 2 mountains and it had the most beautiful harbor we have ever seen! So we decided that, in the morning, we would take the first sunrise to explore it a little. So, we found the campsite and it had really good quality! Glad we choose this.


4th Day - 30th December

Seyðisfjörður


Hello sunshine! Time to wake up! Besides the fact that we still had 1 towel for 2 people and my pajama's faith was to get soaked, the shower was really better than the other one. The bathroom was warmed by a heating system and the water temperature was like from home. 
Some facts: Seyðisfjörður, the town of culture, are and heritage. It's a really picturesque town with only 600 habitants (good for Iceland xD) emerging between 2 fjords and connected to the sea. It's also known for its many original early 19th-century timber houses and pictoresque setting around the lagoon. It stretches along the south side of the fjord, but along the shoreline, you can find access to the sea, rocky beaches and a puffin colony which we didn't see cause we had to continue our journey. There's also a beautiful street there, with a colored painted raimbow comming out of the ice on the floor, ending in the famous blue church of the town, one of the most well known in Iceland. The only thing we were sorry for was that we definitly wanted to be a full day here. I loved the vibe of the city! If I come back to Iceland, I'll be here for 1 week for sure.


The Desert of Snow

But the best was yet to come... We needed to continue heading north, since this day we had a partnership with an hotel near Akureyri. So, we said goodbye to this incredible found, and headed to the same mountains we dangerously drove last night. And WHAT A VIEW! We saw a white cloak spreading miles in our eyes, matching the beautiful lylac and pink colors of the sky, and some snow actually sucked that colors for it'w own beauty! Near the town we still encounter some horizontal waterfall called the Gufu waterfall, and when we tried to get closer, the snow got too deep so we quit that idea xD Then, the desert of snow got us for more kilometers until we got out of the top of the mountain and started to see the other mountains nearby. It was the end of the morning and the cloudy skies started to appear. 


The Finland forest road


Our goal was to reach Hengifoss, a famous eastern iceland track along with a waterfall. In our way there, the flora started to change, with many pine trees covered with snow, it looked like we were in that finland and sweedish forests actually. Strange, cause in the morning everything was so different. Thats what I love about Iceland.

The Hengifoss track 


Once again, we got ourselves with only 1 cereal bar for each and no store nearby. But that never stopped us xD So, we arrived at the Hengifoss track, a 2.5km climbing mountain track that was not well cared (a loooot of snow in the supposable "walkable" way. I don't know if you ever walked on deep snow, but is like to walk in a sand desert, you get tired really quicky. Well, that was fun! In the beggining, there was a bathroom there (free yei!) and some asian family was comming down, and they looked at us with that look of "you don't know what you're getting into!!".
We spent 2 hours climbing the mountain, trowing snow balls and doing snow angels on the grownd. 

Litlanesfoss waterfall

Until we reached a smaller waterfall on the way called the Litlanesfoss waterfall (this one looked like someone was peeing xD cause it was so thin). It was inside beautiful basalt columns with stripes on the rock - The multiple red stripes, as I call them, are sediments and old soil and the red colour stems from the oxidation of the iron in the clay. Very distinctive surroundings for a waterfall. It is a beautiful sight, 128 meters high, making it the 2nd highest waterfall in Iceland if we don't count the waterfall in Morsárjökull glacier. Even beautiful cause the sunset was putting a beautiful orange color in the mountain.
On the 3rd and last part of the climb, the track was really closed, and it was just snow. We decided to head back cause my toe fingers were not responding me anymore of so much cold and so much snow where we were burrying our feet, and João was dying with hungry. So we actually did not see Hengifoss, unfortunatly :c


Drive between Hengifoss and Akureyri


We continued our drive in the north-east part of the island, starting at nightfall. What we saw: many fjords. The eastern fjords (mountains) were the beautiful and distinctive part of the region, in my opinion. Some were covered in snow, some were with a misty fog on top. All of them were magical. And you sould be prepared: north is not like south. Here you discover the harsh winter, sometimes with a not so good experience on the driving part!!
Our final destination: Iceland Yurt, in the north capital of Iceland (right in the north center). Our problem: I'm a terrible co-pilot. Actually. TERRIBLE. So... what did happen? I mistaken Akureyki for Ásbyrgi. Yeah, you cannot blame me, Icelandic language is terrible to write xD
Ásbyrgi is one of the northern places, so when we were on the road, we discovered the mistake. And some part of the road was packed with snow, so we had to do an ever bigger route. Good thing about this: we stoped at Husavik, a ship town where you can have whale watch and other great things like that, and if we had more time, we would love to be there for 1 full day. That's where we finally ate something! Guess what? Yeah, more cereal bars.

Well, after like... 3 hours driving? We finally arrived in Akureyki and the view was awesome. Again, a city near the sea where you could see all the lights shinning in the water, like a universe packed of stars. Our hosts were concerned about us actually cause we were supposed to arrive at 7pm and it was like... 9pm? xD Poor Solla and Erwin!

Night at Iceland Yurt



Click here to see the full post about this hotel.
But it was all worth it. Cause we were going to have one of the best nights of our lives. We were looking for our accomodation, and we found a nice old man with 3 or 4 cute dogs that helped us right away. He was the father of the owner, Solla, and you could see from distance the beautiful soul he was, alongside the great pride he had for his daughter. That was delightfull. He made us laught and show us the way to the yurt, where Solla was expecting us. Just want to say that it looked like we were in a movie cause her father had a sleigh and looked like santa without a beard!!
So!  I could't be more happy case I found the most comfortable hotel here, close to nature (in the other side of the laggon, watching the light town in the horizon). More than an accomodation, Iceland Yurt is an experience. First of all, a Yurt is a mongolian traditional house for nomad people there and the idea was brought up for Iceland. It was made my an amazing couple that had this dream of doing mongolian yurts and they built it themselves. They have 3 but only one operates trought winter. You stay in a tent heated by a wood stove (it was preety funny to see João turning himself to a lumberjack xD) and comfy blankets, and the bathroom is just around the corner. The inside was so colorful you could have joy just to look at it. And Solla tried to tell us the best hour to look at the northern lights (she said it's pretty common to see it from the outside of the tent) but the luck was not in our favor. Once again we didn't catch them xD Solla put hot water there for us, and we boiled some more to do tea cause she had the most incredible tea there: Yoggi tea (very ecological, which I've never heard of but it's pretty common all over the world) made with cinnemon (it was like a christmas edition). In Reykjavik we bought 4 boxes to bring home. My grandmother is still in love with this tea! Best part: The tea has cute and had inspiring messages inside. It was just what I needed in that time of my life.
Solla also said 10am next morning we were going to her house for breakfast, alonside her beautiful father. We obviously said yes! Barely we knew we were going to meet better one of the most inspiring people on the planet. Probably one of the top 5 hightlights of this trip! She also invited us to ski in the afternoon but we were on a really busy schedule as you imagine with only 9 days and 5 hous of day light.


5th day - 31 December

Next morning with Solla


We got dressed, went to the bathroom, did our higiene,  did our partnership stuff (videos and photos) and tried to reach Solla's and Erwin's house. We got a little lost as usual, but we manage it xD There was Solla and her beautiful 2 children. And Erwin's mother alonside Solla's father. The father said some jokes and leave to walk the dogs. The mother was really interested in my piano skills cause one of the children was learning piano, so we had a great conversation about classical music, while João talked with Solla about our iceland trip. She was the best host, giving us a great icelandic breakfast with tomatoes and icelandic fish (I don' know what was it but it tasted amazing!).

The Gaia Temple


After an hour of time passying by, she went with us to her Gaia Temple for a sound healing meditation. It's another Yurt with many instruments for meditation. In the end, we saw some cards, and I really thought about my future with that card - mine was the mother earth. Exactly what I needed to hear when I needed to choose some things in my life.
We said goodbye to Solla and her beautiful family, with some tears in the corner of the eye, cause... Goodbyes are always really hard when you find people like that.

Godafoss Waterfall


On our way to Myvatn Baths, we stopped at Godafoss waterfall. I felt it was actually pretty similar to the Gullfoss in the south part of the country, since it was more horizontal than vertical. Funny story: the track that lead us to the view point had so much ice I think I felt like... 3 times? But João helped me. I survived!! Then, when we tried to take a picture, a group of asian tourists (a family of 5) was taking pictures for hours there, so our own pics did not went so good.
The Goðafoss waterfall is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in Iceland. The water of the river Skjálfandafljót falls from a height of 12 meters over a width of 30 meters.
In the year 1000, the Lawspeaker Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði made Christianity the official religion of Iceland. After his conversion, Þorgeir threw his statues of the Norse gods into the waterfall. 

I remember a cute yellow house there (a souvenir house and a restaurant) that catched my attention cause it was perfectly matched with the harsh weather it was forming above us, but was everything closed (welcome to winter in Iceland...). At least we had a good breakfast!

Myvatn Baths


We headed a little back to east, cause we were going to Myvatn baths on that day. When we arrived at 14h30, it was closed (we totally forgot this day was the new year's eve!!). We were a little upset cause it was a 30 euro thermal bath so good as the Blue Lagoon (it's actually called the blue lagoon of the north). But!! Nothing was lost. We went for a walk in the Myvatn lake wich had a beautiful bright blue color, and with the smoke of the thermal places and the mountains behind, it looked like we were in Sapporo island in Japan or something like that! After a trough-iceballs challenge to eachother, we continued our journey.

Akureyri


Heading back to the northern city, we were hungry as usual, missing the great Solla's breakfast icelandic fish, and, after a long walk in the city at night, we discovered 1 opened place to eat!! So at new year's eve we ate Kebab in a turkish street food restaurant. At least was cheap, I was happy!! I also have to say that this town had traffic lights with heart shapes. So people could stop in the red light and see a heart! Such a great idea!!
We only had one problem... We knew we needed to keep heading west, but with no idea of where would we sleep. So we just continued in the road to the west side, hoping to find something.
We stopped a few times to watch the Fireworks (everyone had it, and they started at 9pm probably), but with no sight of any campsite nearby. It's illegal to camp outside a campsite in Iceland (probably no one would go there and tell us that) but well you're not in your country so you have to follow some rules, right?

The Haunted Mantion at New Year's Eve

Until, after hours of driving and all the hotels closed (don't ask me the location, I have no idea), we arrived at a strange place. Funniest story of this trip in 3...2...1... GO!
It was 10pm. It seemed like a campsite. In the middle of nowhere, and in the internet it said it was free. A huge grass field near a pool building, with a ramp to a down level. In there, there was a big house, all with darkness, and with the light of the kitchen opened. We thought! Hey, a hotel! Let's see the price or if we can camp here. Some windows were broken and others had spider webs all over. João stayed in the car, and I circuled in the outside of the building in the non lightned area until I found a non exit sinister street. I got fucking scared and started to run and to shot out for João. I really didn't liked the vibe of the place. He was making fun of me, and he went out of the car to see it. After some time we got back and gave me reason!!
So, we decided to go for the lightned place with no one there. The door was opened. I repeat. THE DOOR WAS OPENED. We entered, and it was like a kitchen joined with a living room with all the chairs packed up in the tables. The Kitchen was fully equipped and it had food and tea. It had 2 toilets, and in one table, keys with numbers. We tried the keys in the non lightned area, each one opened a room. The room smelled like mold and had a strange door that we don't know where it went. It was eqquiped with 2 beds and a toilet, and even toiled towels in the bed! We decided to get out of there, put the key in the same place that we found, and sleep inside our car.
Well, my thoughts: Iceland is sooo no criminal that the person of the pension just dropped the door opened, or had some solidarity since it was new year's eve. I don't know, but it was scary anyway xD
We passed the mid night seeing the huge firework effect in the sky. And I made my midnight wishes. A wish that I intend to keep cause it's really important to me.


6th day - 1 January

The next morning

In the morning, we went to the bathroom inside the Kitchen part of the house, and it didn't looked so scary anymore. We made tea in the kitchen and then dropped a note for the owner explaining the situation.
After colding the tea in the snow, we headed for our most chill day ever.

Northern landscapes


We passed this day driving and hopping of the car for pictures, the sky was clear and we still had some mountains. Our goal was to explore the westfirdir peninsula, probably the less habited in all Iceland and the one that goes a little inside the artic circle, but guess what! We didn't had time xD On that night we were supposed to sleep in a west hotel, so we could not spend too much time here. My thoughts: I would love to explore every corner of the north-west iceland. So much hidden treasures! Hope to go back one day.
Everything was closed except a fuel station, where we bought a huuuge HOT DOG for each one of us. I was so happy. But the staff seemed a little upsed cause probably they were working on new year day. But at least I had my hot dog. So much days with cereal bars do this to people xD
We also tried to go to a place that had "Seal center" in it's name, but no seals were found. It was a museum with 2 meters of snow in the door. Funny iceland in winter.
Thought: I love this part of iceland. More, I love all the north part. No tourists. No people. Only you, nature, and puffins (If you're lucky to see one!!)

Night at The Freezer Hostel



Click here to see the full post about the hostel.
So, after a long day we finally arrived at the freezer hostel in the Snaefellsnes peninsula (west iceland) and it was probably one of my favorite hostels in the world, there I felt a wonderful welcoming vibe and art culture you don't see in many places! I'll explain better: This is a place for every artist: it's a hostel with a theater inside, with artworks on the walls and a room for music concerts with many instruments! It's a recycled and renovated fish factory that now offers art and culture as well as accomodation. Since the moment I entered I felt an unique and social athmosphere here: "enjoying the benefits of living in community empower us to meet strangers without fear and extend to them the gift of openness and recognition. Just by speaking to strangers, acknowledging their presence on the planet, we make a connection." - That's what was written in the wall. 
The Freezer produces new shows, performed in english and created by local artists. The shows are usually inspired by stories and sagas from West Iceland, and its main goal is to rejuvenate these sometimes forgotten tales and make them come alive for new audiences in an exciting and unforgettable way. Every room had a theme, ours was the Boiled room with beautiful painting decorations and great bathroom facilities. I would spend 1 week here just meeting people and listening to music, reading books, and watching art. Kari, the hostel owner, had the ideas and manage to do a great thing with them. I congrat him!!
Our room had an incredible view to the outside. We tried again to catch the northern lights. Mission failed again xD


7th day - 2nd January

Morning at The Freezer 



Hello sunshine! Time to cook the eggs we still had with us since the first day!! What's the menu? NOT CEREAL BARS YEIII!! Today is scrambled eggs. 6 scrambled eggs. I think the nice guy in the kitchen felt sorry for us, we was baking something good and looked at our scrambled eggs, trying not to laught at us. They also had free green tea for everyone so we made it and spare our coffee.

Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss



Time to go and explore the western peninsula. We had to do some choices cause our itinerary was falling appart completely with the time thing, so we went to the kirkjufell mountain and the kirkjufellsfoss (waterfall). And I can tell you, we had the worse weather there. For one moment to other, a snow storm appeared, and we almost could not open our eyes, João's hands were dying and we made the visit quick. But still beautiful! Kirkjufell, or 'Church Mountain', is a distinctly shaped peak found on the north shore of Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula, only a short distance away from the town of Grundarfjörður. It is often called ‘the most photographed mountain in Iceland’, due to its dramatic formation and perfect coastal location.

Gerduberg Cliffs


Next stop: Gerduberg Cliffs. Advice: not worthy in winter, they were all covered in snow. Still a funny story though. We tried to find them, and were like 20 min walking in someone's backyard without knowing xD the gps didn't know it's location for sure. Then an old men appeared and told us the right way. Basalt columns are one of those marvels of nature that makes you stop and wonder.  Most of the time you are stunned by the mere sight.  It usually makes you wonder if mother nature is the author of this formation of hexagonal shaped stacks and pillars. Often the regularity of the structure is nothing less than unbelievable. At Gerðuberg cliffs you find one of the most impressive basalt column sites in the country.  One of the reasons is the size of the place and also the regularity of the stacks. How they were made: during an eruption thousands of years ago, rivers of lava ran off the cliffs here, in very equal flows. The sea rapidly cooled them, causing them to take this unique and unusual shape.

Borgarnes


Heading south, we stopped in a random town to put fuel and saw this. Beautiful mountains in this city, and was one of the unexpected hightlights of the day!! Borgarnes, Iceland, is a picturesque little town on a rocky peninsula that offers a great view in all directions. On a clear day, you can see not one, but two glaciers (Snæfellsjökull and Eiríksjökull)! I grew up there and go there on a regular basis to visit friends and family, so I know the place quite well. It’s a lovely town with lots of fun things to see and do.
 
Thingvellir National Park


Last stop of the day: Thingvellir National Park. One of the many wonders of the golden circle. We were almost at the capitol and this was our last day in the wild and free.
After we got in a not good road (closed by the snow), we had to go around and the time passed by quickly. So, we arrived 45 min before the sunset probably, still had time to see somethings there. Thingvellir needs 1 full day. It's a huge park full of activities and things to see.
Thingvellir has strong roots in the minds of the icelandic nation as well as in the history of the country. Shortly after the year 900, inhabitants started to think about founding a general assembly for the new settlers of Iceland. The foundation of the Icelandic parliament is said to be the founding of the nation itself! The first parliament was assembled for the first time here. 
This place is also geologically very rich. You can find here Silfra, a crack in the earth where you can dive between 2 tectonic plates! But don't worry, the water is always 2-4ºC so you can survive this dive xD I'm really sad we could not afford to have time to do this, since it was on my bucket list for so long. Well.. An excuse to visit Iceland again!
So, in our little time, we walked over a valley, saw some waterfalls and drove around to see the surroundings.





Night at Galaxy Pod Hostel



Click here to see the full post about the hostel.
After some drive (maybe 1 hour?) We finally went to the capitol! Reykjavik. And I already missed the nothingness of the north. But at least we had a great partnership comming off!
Galaxy pod is an unique hostel that offers you an unique experience and some privacy that hostels usually don't have: you sleep inside a "space" capsule, fully eqquiped with a small tv and cute space lights. You also have a VR room, great toiled and bathroom facilities, a bar inside and a clean kitchen!
Other great thing about this hostel: other travellers left things behind such as higiene products and food for free use, so we spare some money. In the end we left our things too for others to come! Just want to say that, in our room, there were some south korean fashion family that dressed up really well! I though: I need to go to south korea to buy clothes xD I also met a mother and a daughter from Colombia, first south american people I met outside Portugal :) 




8th day - 3rd January

Do you remember we had that crazy drive in early morning to go to the glacier hike between Skogafoss and Hali, we left behind all the south part and we had to manage our itinerary? Well... We cutted a day from Reykjavik and had a full day to see this part: Skogafoss, Black beach and Vik.

Skogafoss


We left in the early morning to catch the first rays of sun near the waterfall. We've been here in total darkness, and slept with the waterfall noise, so, when we arrived, it was so different and we started to laught about that crazy campsite, remembering the painful shower and memories just came back.
Appart of that: It was like... 10 am and it was packed with tourists!! Specially asian tourists, Iceland must be their favorite european destination, I don't know. Buses and buses of them! How I missed the north xD But Skogafoss was quite a sight. I actually cried a little the first time I put my eyes on it! Totally my favorite waterfall in this country. It was big. It was hight. It was massive. And it had a loooot of water flux throught its veins!!
When standing at the base of Skogafoss Iceland, you will really feel your own humanity as you face off against this giant of nature! Skogafoss tosses over millions of gallons of water and has been doing so for thousands and thousands of years.
A legend is connected to Skógafoss waterfall; it is believed that behind it you can find a chest filled with gold and treasures. The story goes that Þrasi Þórólfsson, the Viking Settler at Skógar (Eystriskógar) in around 900, hid the chest and it is said that the first man who goes there will find great treasures. Hm... Is that a challenge?!

Solheimassandur Plane Wreck

After some more driving (poor João, I think he will not drive for more than 6 months after this!!) we arrived in a sort of "dark tourism" place. Well known for many, we visited the Solheimassandur plane wreck, one of the most amazing scenarios we've seen on this trip. In 1973, an US plane ran out of  fuel and crashed on the black beach at Sólheimasandur, in the south coast of Iceland. Fortunately, everyone in the place survived. Later, it turned out that the pilot had simply switched over to the wrong fuel tank. The remains  are still on the sand very close to the sea.
This is outside the road 4km. You can go by walking 40-60 min or by shuttle (10 min) that cost 18€  roundtrip and goes 30 in 30 min. We went by bus cause it was -14ºC and we still needed to go to other places. But if I had more time I would go by foot - not because it's cheaper, I think I want to do that experience, is that time of the day that you realize, if you really want something, you cannot give up and you have to keep your flame and your fight. It was amazing how the nature converted the place! I always love to see abandoned man made structures that are completely forgotten and hold captive by nature, where animals and plants and winds and seas make there their new nest. What I didn't like it: It was too touristic. But worth a visit! Also, the sun made it even more magical, passing trought the plane's eye.



Black Sand Beach



Going for the car: we still needed to go for 2 places on this day. Next stop: the famous Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach. Also: we had an amazing drive there with the sun smashing our faces. On other context I would be pissed of, but in Iceland this is very rare.



Vik I Mirdal


Near, it's probably the most famous small town in Iceland. It's pictoresque church, great food, amazing scenarios and cute icelandic horses made it famous and the rural tourism got better and better.
We started for the church. Not many people were there so it was fine. Located in the town hightest point, you can see the whole shore alongside every corner of that small fishing village. And we were there just in the right time, when the sun was preparing himself to come down, putting a glowing gold light everywhere!
After, it was time to visit a horse farm. We saw them from a distance, because it was closed, but... it's me... I'm always happy around animals.
Then... We finished our little trip to the wild with FISH AND CHIPS! A local restaurant was selling it for a great price, and we finally had some meal (just to remind you that our last regular meal was that pizza after the glacer hike, some days ago). The potatoes were not home made, but they had ketchup so it was fine. The fish was well cooked, and tasted much better from that one in the UK. It tasted more wild and more authentic! Well, in that waters, everything is possible.
Some facts: Just before Vík are the popular birdwatching cliffs of Dyrhólaey, where you can also find an enormous rock arch curving out into the ocean. This is one of the best places for birdwatching in Iceland, with thousands of puffins nesting here from May to August. Maybe next time I see them!

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall




Just before dark, heading the 2h30 back to the capitol, we stopped in one of the first things we saw in the country. Do you remember day 1? Neither I, with such many things going on here! Well, we stopped here again, where we saw our kilometers counter, and had a philosophical talk about life and about the crazy amazing beautiful thing we've done on this days, and how beautiful is life and how beautiful is when you stop surviving and start to live it!!

The Northern Lights


"Ok... 9 fucking days in Iceland and no northern lights? How is it so? Am I doing something wrong?! Well... I'm gonna forget 40€ and buy a trip to see it with some experts!" - João agreed with me. It was our last night. It was our last shot! So we searched a random tour, and they said the tour could go trought the night (sometimes they cancel it cause there's no chance to see it!). We went in a packed bus with more 100 people maybe, to the Thingvellir National Park. We waited maybe 30 min, until our camera finally catched something! It was not much (I don't even know if you can call it Northern Lights), but it as amazing anyway, a dream come true. A Bucketlist thing scrached of my head!
Funny part nr 1: A drunked italian couple was asking everyone to taking a picture of them. And we were good persons and took them their picture.
Funny part nr 2: Without seeing, I went to the front of a camera that was taking a long exposure for 7 min and the girl got a little upset with me. But then she realised I didn't saw the camera (it was really dark in my defence!) and she laughted after.
Funny part nr 3: I was so amazed with what I was seeing, that I wanted to write a poem in my phone. Took out the gloves and my hands died on that night. I don't know how they're here with me now. Cause It was the coldest night we catched on the trip (-15ºC?). And the poem turned out to be howfull cause I don't know how to write poems xD
On the way back to the hotel, we were soooo tired... I think all of the trip came out in that moment, and we slept as we didn't sleep in days!



9th day - 4th January

Reykjavik

Heading back to the futuristic hotel, the next day would be only on the city. My thoughts about it: one day is enought to see it all, since you have a whole new island to explore, I would suggest you to spend your time on the wild cause cities, theres plenty of them.
Reykjavik is pretty clean and it's where you can find most people. João was amazed on how many computer companies he have found there, so, if you're an engeneer, maybe you should consider to work there!
We started our day with that talk with the colombian family I already told you about, and visited some of the main spots.

Hallgrimskirkja Church


If you think about Reykjavik, this is the first place that comes to your mind, right? It was designed by Gudjon Samuelsson in 1937, who was often inspired by the fascinating shapes and forms created when lava cools into basalt rocks. Totally icelandic church theme xD It took 41 years to built it and the gigantic organ inside has 5275 pipes. In the entrance you can discover some beautiful art works too.

Sun Voyager Sculpture


Other charismatic thing of the city! It's made from steel and resembles a Viking long ship. It was created by an icelandic sculptor called Jon Gunnar Arnason. Funny thing: João decided to put on his jeans that day. Not a good choice cause it started to snow a looot and he got soaked ahah! Back to the ski pants. They never get old. Also: we had to wait maybe 15 min to take a picture here cause 3 asian tourists were taking too long in their pictures. But we manage it!

Harp Concert Hall


The most outstanding architecture place I saw in this country! Everything looked like a bee hive. Harpa is Rekjavík’s premier concert hall and conference centre. Opened in 2011, its design was a collaboration between Danish-Icelandic artist Ólafur Elíasson, and the Danish firm Henning Larsen Architects. Today, it is a cultural centre of Reykjavík and one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.

City Walk


Then we just walked around the city. Saw some music instrument shops, and one of them had an instrument Solla used in her sound healing! But it costed 100€ so I didn't bought, unfortunatly. We saw a giant sculpture of a cat (I have no idea why), the city park covered in snow, and a flea market which had a random bath towel with the portuguese flag - its owner was from polland. Yeah. Totally random. And now we don't need a 2nd towel anymore. THANK YOU UNIVERSE.

FlyOver Iceland

After some cereal bars shopping alongside the Solla's tea, and the fridge magnets, and a great goodbye dinner in the best vietnam restaurant we ever went (not to expensive thought!), we went to a 4D experience that everyone was telling us about called FlyOver - a simulator that shows you the parts of Iceland that could be difficult for you to go. The visual effects were incredible! It's probably the best atraction/adventure inside the town and perfect for that people that only go to Reykjavik or to the south coast. It was 30 euros each. My thoughts - not worthy for me. But... Everyone has their own thoughts so it actually deppends on you cause the effects are really good!
For more information:
https://www.flyovericeland.com/

The goodbye 

Then, we had to drive to give the caravan back... And I didn't felt on the ice!! I'm a pro now guys. Then, we went to the airport with tears and missing the days before. And our plane was delayed 5 hours... But yeah we manage to get to Poland, and after, to Portugal!



The most important thing I've learned during this trip:
 

The Icelandic people have a beautiful phrase: “þetta reddast”. Petta Reddast is so frequently used, it has been described as the country's motto. 
It can be translated into "It all work out".
That was our trip. Everything could go wrong but... 

PETTA REDDAST !!!
 
Never give up. Never give up on you, on your dreams. Cause the universe always finds a way trought the dark night! I hope you will not forget this.

What I could have seen If I had more money/more time/more information: